Writings in Copenhagen at the COP-15
Another cold day in the city of the Little Mermaid (whom I have yet to see). Unfortunately, despite careful planning, the bike ride event we had planned for early this afternoon was not the success that we would have wanted. In fact, it was no success at all. There is so much going on around town, perhaps this is no surprise. And people are intensely involved in talks and actions and events that are taking place in the two hubs, the Bella Center and the Klimaforum. Not to mention that there is surely a hangover feeling after yesterday’s marches.
Despite the disappointment, we were still able to enjoy some Glögg (now officially my favorite winter drink here, forget the Julebryg–Christmas beer) and a light lunch. A typical dish is the smørrebrød, open-faced sandwiches, similar to the Tostas in Spain. These are available with a choice of tempting toppings, such as marinated herring, roast beef with remoulade sauce and crispy onions, baked goat cheese with tomato or smoked salmon, among other tasty selections. Two of these and your lunch is set.
We were told by our hosts that the classic place for a warm glass of glögg, and that may well make the best of this winter beverage, is the pub Hviids Vinstue, right on the main square in town, Kongens Nytorv. They serve what might be a stronger version of the drink (with rum and cognac in the wine), so maybe it’s this extra kick that has made it so renowned. According to the Official Tourism Site of Copenhagen, “The wine bar - which is located in an almost 300-year-old building - has an annual production of 6,000 liters. The process starts ev
ery year in May when the red wine is set to draw with raisins and spices. The raisins are the only sweetener, which are later squeezed and thrown away. In the last part of the process cognac and dark rum are added and eventually it is served with fresh raisins and a whole almond.” The atmosphere of the place is also classic. Dim low-hanging lights, dark wood floors and furniture, stained glass windows, very close and homey (what the Danes call hygge).
After that little pick-me-up you can zip off on your bike (rented or borrowed or bought) and enjoy the brisk evening air–by 3 pm it’s already dark.
Back in Madrid, I came across an article I had snatched from a magazine in a café in Copenhagen–it lists some of the best places to enjoy smorrebrod. It would be only wise to list them here:
Royal Café, Amagar Torv 6, serving brunch on Sunday too.
Kanal Caféen, Frederiksholmskanal 18, closed on Monday
Aamanns, Oster Farimagsgade 10
Huset Med Det Gronne Trae, Gammeltorv 20
